I’ve got a USB wall charger, but when I connect my Fuze it displays Connected and won’t charge. It seems to believe it’s connected to a PC! I’ve seen this problem mentioned elsewhere on this forum - as an aside - but no solutions put forward. Most discussion on wall chargers seems to suggest that pins 1 and 4 are used for power and that the Fuze recognises that it is only a charger by the absense of pins 2 and 3.
After a bit of googling I found a similar issue with iPods, where it is suggested that pins 2 and 3 need to be shorted for the charger to work. Is this the same case with the Fuze?
There’s a common misconception regarding the term “shorted” or “short circuit”. Quite often, when things don’t work, the problem is an open circuit. In a short circuit, the current path has been bridged, allowing a “short path”; in an open circuit, there’s a break in the circuit, and no current flows.
With an accessory charger, the only two pins connected should be the 5-volt power pins. These are the outermost two. If there’s a connection between these pins and the inner data pins, strange things can happen.
It’s a generic USB wall charger. Listed as DC5V ±.20V DC 500mA ±30mA. It only has the two power pins, but shows connected on the screen when plugged in. As far as iPod chargers, why would you assume these wouldn’t work? Surely they too would just have the two power pins?
I’m just trying to fathom why the Fuze doesn’t charge when connected, yet there is definately power on the pins as any other USB device I plug in powers up quite happily.
Just really want a certain answer as to whether D+ and D- need to be connected for the Fuze to charge. They may well be in your charger and you not realise it.
My Belkin (made for Sansa) USB wall charger is rated at 5V, 1000mA. Yours is rated at 5V, 500mA. So it looks like it isn’t providing enough Amps to charge your Fuze.
My Belkin (made for Sansa) USB wall charger is rated at 5V, 1000mA. Yours is rated at 5V, 500mA. So it looks like it isn’t providing enough Amps to charge your Fuze.
Mitch
500mA is what a typical USB port is, so it should work just fine.
Checked the pins with a multimeter and there seemed to be some weird circuits between them. Stripped it apart and resoldered the USB socket, minus the two middle pins. Now works a treat with just the outer two (power) pins running.
Problem solved. Griffin Powerdock #3 up and running.
