04-10-2009 08:04 AM - edited 04-10-2009 08:08 AM
Good News: Found on another board that you can buy a replacement battery at Radioshack.
Bad News: It's about $25-30. I paid $30 for my 2gb recertified Fuze.
So, while it looks like it's possible to replace, the cost and difficulty seems to agree with Sanza that this battery is not worthwhile to replace the way technology marches on.
Okay, found a H.K. battery on *bay and it costs about $18 s/h included so it's almost worth it but you need soldering skills remember.
Message Edited by darrelll on 04-10-2009 08:08 AM
04-10-2009 08:06 AM
That battery is not for the Fuze."A bigger shot of juice for your Sandisk Sansa.
Use this Dantona 3.7V/650mAh Hi-Capacity Li-ion PDA battery in your Sandisk Sansa 200 series devices. Keep the music"
Clip Zip 20GB, iPod Nano 2G 4GB, iPod 5.5G 80GB, e280 8GB, Fuze+16GB <--All Rockboxed
Clip Sport 8GB, Cowon D2+ 20GB, Sony S639 16GB, iPod Touch 4G 32GB, iPod Touch 2G 8GB
Nexus 7 32GB(4.4.2 KitKat) LG Optimus G Pro32GB+64GB(4.1.2 JB).
04-10-2009 09:51 AM
The OP isn't the first person to make this mistake. I don't understand why, either. If you look at the pictures, they clearly aren't the same battery. The pic for the e200 battery even has "Replacement for e250" printed on it (though it's really for any e200 player).
04-10-2009 01:40 PM
The Fuze's battery is a Li Ion polymer battery and is more like a gel pack and less like a hard shelled battery.
Anyway, with the cost of the Fuzes now, getting a new one when your battery goes kaput is not work the hassle of trying to replace the battery.
Add to the fact that with about a 20 hour rating, after a 4 year life span, the Fuze would still have 4 hours of juiice per charge. And after 4 years, I can justify another 120 bucks for whatever comes down the pike next.
10-15-2009 08:56 AM
I deduce from the disassembly images that the wires that connect the battery to the PCB (i.e., the logic board) are soldered a the board end. Presumably, they're not permanently attached at the battery end. True?
I'm in the process of disassembling a number of bricked Fuzes for their parts. Can somebody suggest a reliable test to roughly estimate how much life is left in one of them? I have a (cheap) digital multimeter and I can at least measure the voltage. But is that sufficient? Do I have to measure the voltage while the battery is connected to a logic board that's actually doing something, like driving an LCD?
10-15-2009 11:07 AM
The only way to check the "true" voltage output of any battery is with the normal load on the battery. Just checking the open circuit voltage of a battery using a multimeter is not a valid test. Dedicated battery voltage testers have a built-in load in them which is why they work.