Skinjob, Neutron_Bob is right on! I used a 28ga solid strand wirewrap wire to jump pins 7 and 22 on the Sansa connector board. The Sansa cable is nice to work with, it has the full set of 30 contacts and easy to solder at the circuit board connections. NOTE: watch your plus pin side and minus pin side (numbers) and count correctly! I also purchased a cheap View cable, but it was not usable as it did not have any contacts other than those used - el cheapo! Insulate your connections with tape, as the shield passes over everything!!! I removed the strain relief completely and have the wires parallel coming out the large hole. This is temporary, as this was a prototype to make sure it worked. I’ll strain relief it better in the future. Again, Neutron_Bob has a great way to strain relief as he has said!
My player has run daily for over a week now with no problems. This is running with USB end connected to an AC adapter and also running disconnected, it can be plugged in with the unit on without hiccup and will start charging. The player that I internally jumped months ago, serves duty in my garage feeding a Panasonic shelf system. It has the pin7 jumped to one of the 3volt filter caps internally, no more headphone out for that baby!
Using the View cable video wires may be a bit risky! They are probably very thin, but should handle a 500ma USB source. You may pickup some signal noise on a single cable that includes power and audio. Seperate cables give a bit more isolation.
Sorry, no pictures at this time and I really do not want to host pics.
To all others, if you cannot follow the simple connection list shown above and cannot determine the correct pin number locations on a cable connector, you probably should not attempt this modification. It is very easy for people who tinker and have soldering skills to do this. Others may cause BIG problems if they connect wrong or bridge solder connections - do NOT risk your player if you are not experienced with electronic projects.